The Queen of Sheba • Kentish Town

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I’m just back from a lovely long weekend in Inverness, which was all about fresh seafood and whisky porridge, so I’m cheating with a Curryclub restaurant review this week. Last Tuesday we went for dinner at the Queen of Sheba in Kentish Town (www.thequeenofsheba.co.uk). It’s the only Ethiopian restaurant I’ve even been to, but so good I’ve never been temped to go elsewhere (except Ethiopia itself). You might not associate the Horn of Africa with great food but the curries here are incredible – richly spiced and stew-like, and not too hot either. The restaurant interior is cosy and womb-like, decorated with intriguing wooden artefacts and masks, and  infused with the tantalising scent of coffee ceremonies –  fresh coffee  beans and frankincense . The service is sometimes a little slow but the staff are so friendly and gentle this is soon forgiven. Your whole meal comes served on a moon-like injera flatbread made from teff flour, which arrives under an enormous, brightly-coloured cone of woven raffia; the texture of the injera is crumpet-like and it tastes taste slightly sour, but moreishly so. The curries are spooned out so that each person has a portion, and then they are scooped-up by hand using the injera and eaten sans-cutlery. All of the dishes on the menu here are delicious without exception, however, the derek tibs, shiro w’et and gomen are all standout options. Don’t forget a St George’s Beer to wash everything down.